Showing posts with label Esaan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Esaan. Show all posts

Friday, November 13, 2009

Day 12 – An Artist’s Life

Good Morning, North East Thailand

I was up before 5am because I thought that was when "Maa Yeum", Mother Yeum could help me with the interview questions (my friend had translated over the phone to her and explained what I wanted to do). She starts work at her shop at the market at 6am. She told me to be ready at 5am but I phoned my English speaking friend in Bangkok and she interpreted for me and it turns out that actually means 11am to Thai people. I was thinking it was too dark to make a video. Anyway, I went back to bed but for not too long so I could enjoy the "cool" of the day.

I tried to "interview" a few ladies on my own by giving them questions written in Thai (my friend translated them for me). They did a wonderful job of reading the questions but didn't realise that I wanted them to anwser the questions! I tried to explain in broken Thai but to no avail.

So, at 11am I met Maa Yeum and we went to meet a couple of ladies who could relate to my questions. I couldn't upload the videos I've made because the file size is too large but they're unedited and untranslated in Thai – Issan dialect. I don't even know what was being said yet! I'm going to interview someone else when Maa has more time this evening.
The video I'm making is part of my exhibition so I'm including it (well associated images because of uploading issues) as part of my art for the 30 day artist project. It's all part of my life as an artist and portrays my diverse body of work, which you'll realise if you've been following this blog.

I'll go and see what else is in store for me today.

Wendy

The Earth's waters are both boundaries and pathways for peoples, objects and ideas.
Fumio Nanjo

Wednesday, November 11, 2009

Day 11 - Thai Village Life



Lying in Wait


Good Morning, North East Thailand


Hi and sawadee,

I'm in Chaiyaphum province in rural North East Thailand arriving this morning after about a 7 hour bus ride. 

I've got questions all prepared (translated into Thai) to go and ask villages for the video I'm making for my exhibition.  The problem with being in a small place where I don't speak the same language, is that there isn't the facility to transfer my previous video from the tape to a DVD.  I'm using a friend's video camera so it's all new for me.  There is an internet cafe here which is where I'm writing this from.   So, as yet I have no video made today to show you.  I'll probably end up making the video on my camera which as a limited video facility (without zoom etc). 

In the meantime, I get to enjoy rural life for a few days.  I'm happy to see everyone again as it's been 10 months since I was here as artist in residence at Banpao Rural Art Centre.

It is extemely hot and dry here.  I notice the difference in temperature from Malaysia and it's hotter than Bangkok.

Thanks for following my posts,  I you're finding my posts entertaining.

Cheers - Largon,

Wendy

Friday, February 6, 2009

About Banpao - Thai Esaan Village Life

Wendy Grace Allen was invited by Director Dr Apichart Pholprasert to be Artist in Residence for 3 months 2008-2009 at Banpao Rural Art Centre. Below is an excerpt relating to Banpao village from Dr Pholprasert's doctoral thesis on rural nostalgia in art.

Banpao is situated in the Kasetsombun District, Chaiyaphum Province. The first settlement of Banpao community is believed to have been during the Ayudhaya period (1350-1767), (Religion Department of Thai Government, 1982)1. Two important characteristics must immediately be discussed: Banpao is agricultural and Buddhist. Most accounts of the history of Thailand stress the centrality of a way of rural life that has developed in relation to the practice of Theravada Buddhism2. In a Thai village, Buddhism combines the requirement of liberating the mind from human delusion with the necessity of living in harmony with nature. In the same way that the agricultural environment is seen to be the product of generations of labour, it is also clear that a single life span is not enough time to achieve true liberation. The Buddhist concept of reincarnation has a strong environmental resonance for villagers. It is easy for a Thai farmer to understand that he must strive to achieve ‘merit’ (in Thai, called Boon) in the present in order to contribute to a shared, accumulating ‘good’. Agricultural people can relate to the idea of environmental and spiritual inheritance in the same terms.The next section will illustrate and describe the village ceremonies that have evolved over centuries in support of the agricultural/spiritual well-being of the community. These are continued even though the traditional way of life is changing.

In the context of this thesis, the retention of ritual within an increasingly nontraditional social context could be seen as an example of therapeutic nostalgia provoked by an increasingly uncertain national identity. The next section will illustrate and describe the village ceremonies that have evolved over centuries in support of the agricultural/spiritual well-being of the community. These are continued even though the traditional way of life is changing.

Disruptions

There are two recent transformations to the agricultural aspects of Banpao life that need to be discussed before proceeding further: 1) the introduction of ‘iron buffalo’ tractors to replace the animals that drew ploughs and carts and 2) the influx of Chinese middlemen who buy and sell rice and offer loans to farmers to help them mechanise their work (Walker, 1992: 77).

When I recall Banpao before the advent of tractors and rice merchants I do not find it difficult to link the way of life to the most ancient traditions. The families amongst whom I grew up farmed only enough land to provide for their needs. Apart from rice they grew fruit and vegetables, which were shared out within their extended family and amongst neighbours. Pigs, ducks and chicken were kept for meat. In addition, fish were readily available in local ponds and flooded paddy fields.

There is a well-known verse that describes the wealth of food resources in rural Thailand: ‘Nai Nam Mee Pla Nai Na Me Kaow’ (In the river, there is fish, in the field,there is rice). Banpao farmers never lacked food. The richness of natural resources has been one of the main characteristics of Banpao village. Rice and fish are not only the most common meal for farmers, they have become a symbol of ‘food’ itself. This can be noticed from the villagers’ friendly greetings when they walk pass each other: “Have you had rice yet?” or “What do you have with your rice today?” The spontaneous answer is “I have rice with fish”; no matter what they had for a meal that day.

In recent years the government has encouraged farmers to increase rice production. There have been nationwide missions to encourage the adoption of modern technology and chemical fertilisers and countless local schemes to improve irrigation systems. As a result, Thailand has become one of the biggest exporters of rice in the world and, whilst remaining a land of farmers (about sixty per cent of a population of sixty-three million (Poonyarat, 2003: 8A), has transformed a traditional way of life into a very competitive agricultural industry focused on international markets.

The use of machinery in farming

With this change of status, the religious and cultural importance of rice has also undergone modification. The festivals that blessed each stage of the rice-growing process were once an entirely local matter, a common sight in villages across the land. Now there is an all encompassing Royal Ploughing Ceremony that is televised nationwide to mark the beginning of the rice-growing season. Just as the ancient balance between productivity and conservation was once marked by countless small ceremonies that celebrated the spiritual strength of each village community:now the commercial production of rice generates this lavish TV spectacle that is said to promote the spiritual strength of the entire population (Chadchaidee, 1994). This correlation of village and national identity has some resonance in my later discussion of rural themes in contemporary Thai painting. For example, the many farming rituals that offer thanks to Mae Posop (the Rice Mother) have been popularised in tourist-oriented imagery that apparently represents Thailand both to itself and to the outside world. As we shall see, Bangkok artists (nearly always with rural upbringings) have been in good part responsible for this transformation.

Above all else, it is the impact of returning migrant workers that has changed the fabric of village life. Those who have lived and worked in cities import urban values to the midst of farming communities. Rural families now expect to own television sets and stereo equipment and use electronic public address systems within traditional ceremonies (Walker, 1992: 77). Alongside this trend, the government has also sought to update rural society through initiatives that have encouraged the spread of digital telecommunication technology throughout rural areas.

Extract from Dr Apichart Pholprasert's doctoral thesis on rural nostalgia in art.

1. The age of the village has been estimated using archaeological evidence from the village’s main temple.

2. As Buddhism expanded across Asia from its origins in India, it evolved into two main forms: Theravada and Mahayana. Theravada is the original form of Buddhism. (Robinson, B.A. “Buddhism” http://www.religioustolerance.org/buddhism.htm [access 10 May 2005]). See also, Gillett, R.(2001) The Essence of Buddhism. London: Caxton Publishing Group.

The Earth's waters are both boundaries and pathways for peoples, objects and ideas.
Fumio Nanjo

Friday, January 23, 2009

Favourite Thai Esaan (Nth East) Food

Have you tried spicy Som Dum? It's a Lao style salad and a staple food in the Esaan (also spelt Esarn, Isaan, Isan in English) (meaning Lao) area of North East Thailand. It's made from fresh green papaya (green mango, or cucumber), with cherry tomatoes, lime, fish sauce, sometimes peanuts, carrot, tiny shrimps or crab and always with chilli (Prik)!!! Every day I hear the sound of "pok pok" the nick name for Som Dum as women make Som Dum by pounding it with a pestle inside a morter. There's even a movie by the same name. In the movie a farang (foreigner) eats Som Dum and it makes him so crazy that he demolishes the restaurant. He later uses his extraordinary strength from eating Som Dum to beat up the baddies. Try it to see if you get Som Dum strength!

Also in the photo is another favourite Esaan staple: Laab. Laab is a kind of minced salad (again from Laos), made with minced chicken (gai), pork (moo), beef (nuea) or local favs. fish (pla) or waterbuffalo (gnuea). The buffalo is smililar to beef but is a bit tougher and doesn't really have a strong flavour. The mince is mixed with rice powder (the rice has been fried and then ground into a powder), ubiquitous fish sauce, dried chilli, lime, chicken stock or water and garnished with mint, thai basil, coriander or other herbs. An important purpose of vegetables here is to be "Ghin gup Laab" to eat with Laab. So Laab is served with fresh vegetables such as cabbage, lettuce, beans, small round eggplant, cucumber or other greens - yum.

In the picture we are eating steamed rice (Khao Jao in Essan or Khao Soi in central Thailand), but usually we eat both these dishes with sticky rice (Khao Niao). The sticky rice is rolled into balls, eaten with Laab and Som Dum using your fingers. For steamed rice you use a fork and spoon. There's also some chicken in the picture, we had a feast that day! (Oops we'd just started to eat and I remembered to take a pic). From the photo we can tell it's not taken in the North East because there's no Khao Niao. We eat Khao Niao usually three times a day here (that's in the rural Thai village of Ban Pao in Kaeset Sombun). The rice is freshly harvested from Apichart's family's rice paddy fields. Did you know that rice growing in the rice paddy smells like freshly cooked rice only a bit sweeter?

The Earth's waters are both boundaries and pathways for peoples, objects and ideas.
Fumio Nanjo